September 2022

JEWELRY INSURANCE ISSUES (formerly IM News), provides monthly insight and information for jewelry insurance agents, underwriters and claims adjusters.

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Jewelry Insurance Issues

Table of Contents

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2024

Gems aren't only in jewelry - January

A new switcheroo - February

Diamond deflation - March

The diamond engagement ring - April

A Case in Point - May

Gems & the sun - June

Faking the brands - July & August

BIG diamonds - September

What is a CPO Rolex? - October

2023

Exploring the 4 Cs: Carat Weight & Cut are a team - January

Beautiful gems — but not always in jewelry - February

Rapaport's New Year Message - March

New technology, new standards for diamond cut - April

Wedding season has a new star - May

Lab-Grown Colored Gems - June

Price, value, valuation ... and limit of liability - July

Lab-Grown Diamonds – now and into the future - August

Fake diamond certificates – recurring scams and a strange new one - September

Mined or lab-made? - October

Fraud catcher: the sales receipt - November

2022

What's up with diamonds? Prices! - January

Ferreting out the Fakes - February

Vodka, caviar . . . and diamonds? - March

Conflict of Interest - April

Under the "covers" - May

Agents: Do you know who you're doing business with? - June

Brand-name fakes: a tale of jewelry, duplicity, and international intrigue - July

What is insurable jewelry? - August

Vintage Rolexes - September

Lab-Made Diamonds in the Fast Lane - October

Exploring the 4 Cs: Color – more complex than you may think - November

Exploring the 4 Cs: Clarity – for all transparent gems - December

 

2021

High-end jewelry & its docs - January

Where is gold going? - February

Hot off the press: Imposter diamonds & forged inscriptions - March

Jewelry insurers’ ethics - April

Can you spot a forgery? - May

Green Diamonds - June

Is the appraisal good enough? And is it enough? - July

Men’s Jewelry—Passing fad or wave of the future? - August

Jewelry appraisals — watches vs. jewels - September

Replacements & CAD/CAM - October

Lab-Grown Diamonds are coming your way - November

How important is the picture? Very! - December

2020

2020 Fraud Alert! Fake Lab Reports - January

Is it worth its weight in gold? - February

Grading lab-made diamonds - March

Safety deposit boxes - April

Evaluating a jewelry appraisal - May

Verifying the Lab Report - June

When you need a jewelry appraisal, what do you do? - July

Calling a diamond a diamond - August

Diamond clarity meets Artificial Intelligence - September

Mined or Lab-made: Who knows? - October

Covid 19 & jewelry insurance - November

Gem Enhancement’s slippery slope - December

2019

Gem Certificates again at issue - January

Yogo sapphires – What's in a name? - February

Lab-made diamonds: pricing, grading, valuation - March

What is an "eco-friendly" diamond? - April

GIA report: What's left out - May

A tale from the Caribbean - June

Lab-Grown diamonds are taking off - July

Brand impersonators & counterfeit jewelry - August

Lab reports for colored gems - September

FTC Guidelines for jewelry - October

Selling Salvage Jewelry - November

What's in a name—a brand name, that is? - December

2018

What's a Certified Appraiser? - January

Best Appraiser Credentials - February

Are the diamonds you’re insuring real? - March

Handwritten Appraisals - April

Internet Tips for Jewelry Insurers - May

De Beers will sell lab-grown diamonds - June

Do genuine gemstones break? - July

Luxury Watches - August

Who owns the ring? - September

Insuring Bling - October

The Price of a Replacement - November

Love Is In The Air - December

2017

Moral Hazard, Documents and the Bottom Line - January

Ruby and Jade - February

How to mail a diamond - March

Jewelry Insurance Appraisal Standards: JISO - April

Describing a gem's color - May

Why not just put jewelry on the Homeowner policy? - June

GIA Diamond Reports - July

Not just a pretty face - August

Moral hazards on the rise - September

Hurricanes, fires, floods—and jewelry insurance - October

Inherent vice / wear-and-tear losses are rising - November

FRAUD UPDATE – lack of disclosure, false inscriptions & doctored docs - December

2016

Inflated appraisals—alive & well! Shady lab reports—alive & well! MORAL HAZARD—ALIVE & WELL! - January

Clarity Enhancements v. Inherent Vice - February

How green is my emerald? - March

Cruise Jewelry - What's the problem? - April

Crown of Light ® - how special is it? - May

Diamonds at Auction — Big gems, big prices, and the trickle-down effect - June

Are you sure her wedding jewelry is covered? - July

What Affects Jewelry Valuation? - August

What to look for – on the jewelry appraisal, on the cert, and on other documents - September

Growing Bigger & Bigger Diamonds - October

Scam season is always NOW - November

Ocean Diamonds - December

2015

Pair & Set Jewelry Claims and the Accidental Tourist - January

Is that brand-name diamond a cut above the others? - February

Vacation Jewelry – Insurer beware! - March

Apple's Smartwatch – The risk of a wrist computer - April

Why you should read that appraisal - May

Smoking Gun! - June

Color-Grading Diamond: the Master Stones - July

Padparadscha—a special term for a special stone - August

Jewelry Appraisal Fees - September

Insuring a Rolex - steps to take, things to consider - October

Diamond camouflage and how to see through it - November

GIA Hacked! - December

2014

Who Grades? - January

Sales, discounts, price reductions, bargains, specials, mark-downs . . . . and valuation - February

Credential Conundrum - March

Frankenwatches - April

Fakes, fakes, and more fakes - May

Marketing Confusion — What is this gem anyway? - June

12 Reasons Not to Insure a Rolex! - July

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 5-7 - August

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 8-10 - September

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 11-12 - October

The Doublet Masquerade - November

Is the gem suitable for the jewelry? Is this a good insurance risk? - December

2013

Wedding Rings on HO? NO! - January

Silver: the new gold - February

Point Protection - March

Tiffany v. Costco - April

What counts in valuing a diamond? - May

Appraising Jewelry - What’s a credential worth? - June

A Cutting Question concerning vintage diamonds - July

Synthesized Diamonds - Scam update - August

Pretty in Pink - Kunzite on parade... - September

Preventing jewelry losses - October

Scratch a diamond and you’ll find . . .??? - November

Synthetics in the Mix - December

2012

Advanced Gem Lab - A deeper look at colored gems - January

Whose Diamond? - February

Appraisal Inflation - It Keeps On Keeping On - March

Big Emerald - April

Changing colors and making gems: Are we seeing "beautiful lies"? - May

Diamonds - Out of Africa. . .or out of a lab? - June

Appraiser's Dream Contest - July

GIA & the Magic of Certificates - August

Pricey when it’s hot: What happens when it’s not? - September

Fooling With Gold - October

Tanzanite – December's stone - November

Branding Diamonds - What do those names mean? - December

2011

Unappraisable Jewelry - January

Replicas - Are they the real thing? - February

Composite Rubies- From bad to worse - March

Jewelry Hallmark - A Well-Kept Secret - April

Non-Disclosure: Following a Trail of Deception - May

Preserving the Diamond Dream - June

Spinel in the Spotlight - July

Jewelry 24/7 - Electronic Shopping - August

Diamond Bubble? - September

Disclosure: HPHT - October

"Hearts & Arrows" Diamonds - November

How a Gem Lab Looks at Diamonds - December

2010

Emeralds - And What They Include - January

Pink Diamonds: From Astronomical to Affordable - February

Palladium-the Other Precious White Metal - March

Bridal Jewelry - April

The Corundum Spectrum - May

How Photos Cut Fraud - and help the insured - June

The Price of Fad - July

Old Cut, New Cut-It's All about Diamonds - August

EightStar Diamonds-Beyond Ideal - September

The Hazard of Fakes - October

Jewelry with a Story - November

Counterfeit Watches - December

2009

Blue Diamond-cool, rare and expensive-sometimes - January

Turning Jewelry into Cash—
Strategy in a Bad Economy
- February

Enhancing the Stone - March

Being Certain about the Cert - April

Every Picture Tells a Story - May

Color-Grading Diamonds - June

The Newest Diamond Substitute - July

What Happens to Stolen Jewelry - August

Jewelry As an Investment - September

Black Diamond: Paradox of a Gem - October

Protect Your Homeowners Market—Keep Jewelry OFF HO Policies! - November

What’s So Great about JISO Appraisal Forms & Standards? - December

2008

Garnet - and Its Many Incarnations - January

Organic Gems - February

Do Your Jewelry Insurance Settlements Make You Look Bad? - March

Don't Be Duped by Fake JISO Appraisal - April

Diamonds in the Rough - May

The Cultured Club - June

Sapphire-Gem Superstar - July

It's a Certified Diamond! - But who's saying so? - August

FTC Decides: Culture Is In! - September

Paraiba Tourmaline – What's in a Name? - October

How Fancy is Brown? - November

CZ – The Great Pretender - December

2007

Moissanite's New Spin - January

Online Jewelry - Buying and Insuring - February

Blood Diamonds - March

Damaged Jewelry, Don't Assume! - April

Chocolate Pearls - May

Appraisal Puff-Up vs Useful Appraisal - June

It's Art, but is it Jewelry?- July

Diamonds Wear Coats of Many Colors - August

Danger! eBay Jewelry "Bargains" - September

TV Shopping for Jewelry - October

Enhanced Emerald: clever coverup - November

How do you like your rubies -
leaded or unleaded?
- December

2006

The New Platinum: A Story of Alloys - January

Ruby Ruse - February

How Big are Diamonds Anyway? - March

GIA Diamond Scandal
Has Silver Lining for Insurers
- April

Watch Out for Big-Box Retailers Insurance Appraisals - May

Mixing It Up: Natural and Synthetic Diamonds Together - June

Tanzanite - Warning: Fragile - July

Red Diamonds - August

Inflated Valuations & Questionable Certificates - September

Emeralds - October

Where Do Real Diamonds Come From? - November

Counterfeit Watches - The Mushroom War - December

2005

The Lure of Colored Diamonds - January

Synthetic Colored Diamonds - February

Watches: What to Watch for - March

When is a Pear not a Pair? - April

The Truth About Topaz - May

White Gold: How White is White? - June

One of a Kind - or Not - July

Jewelry in Disguise - August

Valued Contract for Jewelry? Proceed with Caution! - September

Antiques, Replicas and All Their Cousins - October

Grading the Color of Colored Diamonds - November

New GIA Cut Grade for Diamonds - December

2004

Synthetic Diamonds - and Insuring Tips - January

Bogus Appraisals and Fraud - February

A Picture is Worth Thousands of Dollars - March

Don't be Duped by Fracture Filling - April

Gem Scams Point to Need for Change - May

What is a Good Appraisal - June

4Cs of Color Gemstones - July

Gem Laser Drilling: The Next Generation - August

Why Update an Appraisal? - September

When to Recommend an Appraisal Update or a Second Appraisal - October

Secrets of Sapphire - November

Will the Real Ruby Please Stand Up - December

2003

Mysterious Orient:
A Tale of Loss
- January

Bogus Diamond Certificates and Appraisals - February

Can Valuations be Trusted? - March

Spotting a Bogus Appraisal or Certificate - April

Counterfeit Diamond Certificates - May

Case of the Mysterious "Rare" Sapphires - June

Politically Correct Diamonds - July

Name Brand Diamonds- September

Princess Cut: Black Sheep of Diamonds - October

Reincarnate as a Diamond - November

Synthetic Diamonds - December

2002

Irradiated Mail/Irradiated Gems - January

Fake Diamonds (Moissonite) - February

GIA Diamond Report - March

AGS and Other Diamond Certificates - April

Colored Stone Certificates - May

Damaged Jewelry: Don't Pay for Nature's Mistakes - June

The Case of the "Self-Healing" Emerald - July

Mysterious Disappearance: Case of the Missing Opals - August

The Discount Mirage - September

What Can You Learn from Salvage? - October

Gaining from Partial Loss - November

Year in Review - December

2001

Colored Diamonds - January

Good as Gold - February

Disclose Gem Treatments - March

FTC Jewelry Guidelines - April

Myths Part I: Each Piece is Unique - May

Myths Part II: Myths, Lies, & Half-Truths - June

New Trend: Old Cut Stones - October

The Appraisal Process - November

Year in Review - December

2000

Deceptive Pricing - January

Gems - Natural or Manmade - February

Jeweler/Appraisal Credentials - March

Fracture Filling - April

Salvage Jewelery - May

Gem Treatments - June

Don't Ask/Don't Tell - A Buying Nightmare - July

Laser Drilling of Diamonds - August

Jeweler Ethics or the Lack Thereof - September

Gem Scam - October

The Truth about Clarity Grading - November

Year in Review - December

 

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Vintage Rolexes 

Just when you thought you were safe .  .  .

An insurer received a submission to cover three Rolexes. All were recently purchased, but they were previously owned watches manufactured years ago or even decades ago. The oldest was more than 40 years old. Is that a problem for the insurer?

When the replacement value given for a vintage watch is the price of today's model, yes, that's a problem – AND A MAJOR MORAL HAZARD!

Note to readers: Although this article is about Rolexes,  the situation is equally true for many other high-end watches.

Why not replace a vintage watch—that is, a used watch—with today's model?

Because, unlike other jewelry, watches are subject to depreciation.

For a diamond ring, 40 years later diamond is still diamond, gold is still gold, and the value of diamond and gold is significantly higher.

But watches are machines. A luxury watch is a quality machine with a complex mechanism, and watch parts wear out.

Also, new watches, like new cars, have improvements over last year's model. It's an apt comparison because both are machines. Other than exceptional collector's items, it's a rare watch—or car—that holds its value or gains in value over the years.

Yet appraisers regularly base the valuation of a pre-owned Rolex on the price of a new one, and insurers accept that figure. Why is that?

Jewelry (including watches) is insured based on an appraisal, while a car's coverage is based on its VIN (which contains all details). The jewelry appraisal carries a valuation, while the auto policy carries no valuation.

Both auto and jewelry are covered under ACV policies; for both, the settlement value is determined AT TIME OF LOSS. As you would not replace a 10-year-old Lexus with a new one due to moral hazard, neither should you replace a 10-year-old Rolex with a new one.

Valuing a vintage Rolex

The appraisal document pictured here is for the gold watch shown above. It states that the insured purchased the watch about a year ago.

It does not state that this newly-purchased watch is a pre-owned 40-year-old piece.

The valuation given is not that of a 40-year-old watch but is the price of a new watch of the same make and model (or current replacement model). Unfortunately, this is a very common practice.

It is, of course, to a seller's advantage to have a lost watch replaced with a new one. Yet sellers are well aware of the secondary market, because that's where they can purchase pre-owned brand-name watches for well below new-watch prices. It's also a way they can purchase and sell brand name watches without being an authorized dealer.

Insurers can also access the secondary market!

Many online sites buy and sell used/vintage watches. Some carry both new and pre-owned watches. Their "buy" price is less than their "sell" price, so they can make a profit, but their sell price will usually be well below the price of a current model of the same watch.

Checking the secondary market for the watches in this submission, here is what the insurer found.

Accessing the secondary market

You must first be alert to evidence that the watch in question is, in fact, a vintage timepiece. In the case above, the appraisal document identifies the appraiser as  a "Vintage and Pre-Owned Specialist." One might just overlook this as an impressive title, but it's an indication that this appraiser is aware of the price differences between old and new watches and that this  watch might be a pre-owned watch.

You can find sites that sell pre-owned Rolexes by googling a phrase such as "buy used Rolex."  The info you need to locate a specific watch is right on the appraisal and/or warrantee papers you received—the brand, model, serial number, etc. You should also have a good photo of the watch so you can make a visual comparison. Finding a match may take a bit of scrolling, but it could save thousands of replacement dollars.

About the appraisals

$13,900 valuation

$9,150 valuation

$33,150 valuation

Authentication

Rolex is one of the most popular luxury watch brands and the most counterfeited. In fact, the problem of counterfeit Rolexes is staggering. A recent estimate is that the total number of fake Rolex watches produced every year is 10 times the number made in Rolex's own facilities.

Caution: Cannibalized and reconstructed watches are quite common. If any non-Rolex part is added to a Rolex or substituted during a repair, the watch is no longer considered by the company to be a Rolex, and Rolex will not service these watches.

It is important to note that the appraisal document in this submission states that the seller is an officially certified Rolex Jeweler. As such, this jeweler is authorized to sell new Rolex watches and can also order repair parts (some but not all) from the company. Even so, used Rolexes may have non-Rolex parts, such as dials and bezels.

Only an authorized Rolex dealer who is Rolex certified can reliably authenticate a Rolex.

Replacement Value

Notice that these documents are not called appraisals. Each doc describes the basic details of the watch, but it doesn't give a valuation for the pre-owned watch being purchased. Instead, it gives a "replacement value" that is the price of the current model. For insurers, that would mean replacing old with new. Again: would you do that with a twenty-year-old car?

As a dealer in used watches—a Vintage and Pre-Owned Specialist, according to the signature—the jeweler is familiar with the secondary market. The jeweler buys used watches at reduced prices, but it is in the jeweler's interest to want all insurance replacements to be new watches (new for old)—hopefully purchased from his store!

Moral Hazard

Valuing a vintage watch with the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of a new one gives the buyer the impression that the watch's insured value is higher than its purchase price. It's not difficult to imagine the temptation to "lose" an old watch so it can be replaced with a new one. This kind of temptation does not arise with auto insurance, since auto policies usually carry no valuation and almost always replace old with old.

The danger of a fraudulent claim aside, to value a vintage watch with the MSRP price of a new one is unfair to the customer. Such a valuation sets up the consumer for higher premiums than necessary and, in case of a loss, false expectations about the settlement.

A related issue for insurers is that using the MSRP for valuation is excessive even for a new Rolex, since most authorized Rolex dealers will discount the purchase as much as 20% off the suggested retail price. Again, if the watch is scheduled at the MSRP rather than at the price the consumer paid, the insured will be overpaying premiums, while the insurer would replace with an LKQ watch at a negotiated price.

Appraiser Credentials

Documents for the two lower-value watches shown above are signed by the store's sales manager, with credentials listed as GIA AJP. GIA is a respected source for gemologist education, but don't be fooled—the letters AJP do not signify gemological study.

AJP stands for Applied Jewelry Professional™, an online course from GIA that helps students "understand the steps of the jewelry sales process" and "convey the romance, lore, and characteristics of the most popular colored gemstones." This course is for salespeople. It does not train gemologists in appraising jewelry or authenticating watches. For insurer or customer, this "credential" carries no weight. In all likelihood this person did not gemologically examine the jewelry and/or assign its value.

For a more detailed look at some other shaky appraiser "credentials," see Credential Conundrum.

 

FOR AGENTS & UNDERWRITERS

Insuring a vintage Rolex for the value of a new one means

Considering the prevalence of counterfeit Rolexes, be on guard. You don't want to have to replace a cheap knockoff with a genuine item down the line.

The sales receipt for a luxury watch should be from an authorized dealer in that brand. If the purchase price is well below the appraised valuation, this may indicate that the purchased watch is an older, pre-owned watch, while the valuation is the price of the current (new) model.

Many consumers are not aware that luxury watches bought from sources other than an authorized dealer may be counterfeit, despite any logos or trademarks.

Any luxury brand watch from an unauthorized source should be thoroughly inspected to be sure that all its parts are genuine. It may be necessary to send a Rolex to an authorized dealer, or to the company itself, for certification. This may seem pricey to the insured, but it should be considered part of the cost of owning a luxury brand-name watch. (Rolex certification is something the seller should pay for and supply with the purchased watch, but this rarely happens with pre-owned watches.)

Always ask for warrantee papers, even if the watch is past its warrantee date. These papers attest to the authenticity of the watch and generally follow the life of the watch.

Caution: There are fraudulent warrantee documents, and such docs can even be purchased online. Scary!

Before covering a Rolex, you may want to review our four issues on 12 Reasons Not to Insure a Rolex: Reasons 1-45-7,  8-10 and 11-12.

 

FOR ADJUSTERS

With the exception of rare collector pieces, watches begin losing value as soon as they walk out the door, just as cars decline in value the minute they drive off the lot.

Be on guard against fraud. If a policyholder discovers they have inadvertently purchased a counterfeit watch they may decide to lose it and cash in.

Check the appraisal for manufacturer, model and serial number, plus any other identifying information.

Check for manufacturer warrantees and other evidence of authenticity. Merchandise bought online (or from other unauthorized sources) may be second-hand, or may be altered with cheaper parts, or may be a complete knockoff wearing a prestigious logo.

The insurer is obligated to replace with like kind and quality. For a loss claim on a new watch, one that is still under Rolex warranty, the company would properly replace it with a like-model new watch.

Do not replace a vintage Rolex with the current model, as doing so increases moral hazard exponentially. The customer is entitled to a LKQ watch, not a newer model.

Seek a replacement of like kind and quality in the vintage watch market. If the watch does not come with verification from an authorized Rolex dealer, the insurer will have to send it to Rolex or an authorized Rolex dealer for verification.

For a cash settlement, the settlement amount would equal the insurer's cost for a replacement from the vintage market—just as is done with automobiles.

Before settling a claim on a Rolex, you may find it useful to review our series 12 Reasons Not to Insure a Rolex: Reasons 1-45-7,  8-10 and 11-12 .

 

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