February 2019

JEWELRY INSURANCE ISSUES (formerly IM News), provides monthly insight and information for jewelry insurance agents, underwriters and claims adjusters.

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Jewelry Insurance Issues

Table of Contents

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2024

Gems aren't only in jewelry - January

A new switcheroo - February

Diamond deflation - March

The diamond engagement ring - April

A Case in Point - May

Gems & the sun - June

Faking the brands - July & August

BIG diamonds - September

What is a CPO Rolex? - October

Investing in Gems - Part 1: Scams - November

Investing in Gems - Part 2: Is it a good idea? - December

2023

Exploring the 4 Cs: Carat Weight & Cut are a team - January

Beautiful gems — but not always in jewelry - February

Rapaport's New Year Message - March

New technology, new standards for diamond cut - April

Wedding season has a new star - May

Lab-Grown Colored Gems - June

Price, value, valuation ... and limit of liability - July

Lab-Grown Diamonds – now and into the future - August

Fake diamond certificates – recurring scams and a strange new one - September

Mined or lab-made? - October

Fraud catcher: the sales receipt - November

2022

What's up with diamonds? Prices! - January

Ferreting out the Fakes - February

Vodka, caviar . . . and diamonds? - March

Conflict of Interest - April

Under the "covers" - May

Agents: Do you know who you're doing business with? - June

Brand-name fakes: a tale of jewelry, duplicity, and international intrigue - July

What is insurable jewelry? - August

Vintage Rolexes - September

Lab-Made Diamonds in the Fast Lane - October

Exploring the 4 Cs: Color – more complex than you may think - November

Exploring the 4 Cs: Clarity – for all transparent gems - December

 

2021

High-end jewelry & its docs - January

Where is gold going? - February

Hot off the press: Imposter diamonds & forged inscriptions - March

Jewelry insurers’ ethics - April

Can you spot a forgery? - May

Green Diamonds - June

Is the appraisal good enough? And is it enough? - July

Men’s Jewelry—Passing fad or wave of the future? - August

Jewelry appraisals — watches vs. jewels - September

Replacements & CAD/CAM - October

Lab-Grown Diamonds are coming your way - November

How important is the picture? Very! - December

2020

2020 Fraud Alert! Fake Lab Reports - January

Is it worth its weight in gold? - February

Grading lab-made diamonds - March

Safety deposit boxes - April

Evaluating a jewelry appraisal - May

Verifying the Lab Report - June

When you need a jewelry appraisal, what do you do? - July

Calling a diamond a diamond - August

Diamond clarity meets Artificial Intelligence - September

Mined or Lab-made: Who knows? - October

Covid 19 & jewelry insurance - November

Gem Enhancement’s slippery slope - December

2019

Gem Certificates again at issue - January

Yogo sapphires – What's in a name? - February

Lab-made diamonds: pricing, grading, valuation - March

What is an "eco-friendly" diamond? - April

GIA report: What's left out - May

A tale from the Caribbean - June

Lab-Grown diamonds are taking off - July

Brand impersonators & counterfeit jewelry - August

Lab reports for colored gems - September

FTC Guidelines for jewelry - October

Selling Salvage Jewelry - November

What's in a name—a brand name, that is? - December

2018

What's a Certified Appraiser? - January

Best Appraiser Credentials - February

Are the diamonds you’re insuring real? - March

Handwritten Appraisals - April

Internet Tips for Jewelry Insurers - May

De Beers will sell lab-grown diamonds - June

Do genuine gemstones break? - July

Luxury Watches - August

Who owns the ring? - September

Insuring Bling - October

The Price of a Replacement - November

Love Is In The Air - December

2017

Moral Hazard, Documents and the Bottom Line - January

Ruby and Jade - February

How to mail a diamond - March

Jewelry Insurance Appraisal Standards: JISO - April

Describing a gem's color - May

Why not just put jewelry on the Homeowner policy? - June

GIA Diamond Reports - July

Not just a pretty face - August

Moral hazards on the rise - September

Hurricanes, fires, floods—and jewelry insurance - October

Inherent vice / wear-and-tear losses are rising - November

FRAUD UPDATE – lack of disclosure, false inscriptions & doctored docs - December

2016

Inflated appraisals—alive & well! Shady lab reports—alive & well! MORAL HAZARD—ALIVE & WELL! - January

Clarity Enhancements v. Inherent Vice - February

How green is my emerald? - March

Cruise Jewelry - What's the problem? - April

Crown of Light ® - how special is it? - May

Diamonds at Auction — Big gems, big prices, and the trickle-down effect - June

Are you sure her wedding jewelry is covered? - July

What Affects Jewelry Valuation? - August

What to look for – on the jewelry appraisal, on the cert, and on other documents - September

Growing Bigger & Bigger Diamonds - October

Scam season is always NOW - November

Ocean Diamonds - December

2015

Pair & Set Jewelry Claims and the Accidental Tourist - January

Is that brand-name diamond a cut above the others? - February

Vacation Jewelry – Insurer beware! - March

Apple's Smartwatch – The risk of a wrist computer - April

Why you should read that appraisal - May

Smoking Gun! - June

Color-Grading Diamond: the Master Stones - July

Padparadscha—a special term for a special stone - August

Jewelry Appraisal Fees - September

Insuring a Rolex - steps to take, things to consider - October

Diamond camouflage and how to see through it - November

GIA Hacked! - December

2014

Who Grades? - January

Sales, discounts, price reductions, bargains, specials, mark-downs . . . . and valuation - February

Credential Conundrum - March

Frankenwatches - April

Fakes, fakes, and more fakes - May

Marketing Confusion — What is this gem anyway? - June

12 Reasons Not to Insure a Rolex! - July

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 5-7 - August

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 8-10 - September

Why NOT to insure a Rolex: Reasons 11-12 - October

The Doublet Masquerade - November

Is the gem suitable for the jewelry? Is this a good insurance risk? - December

2013

Wedding Rings on HO? NO! - January

Silver: the new gold - February

Point Protection - March

Tiffany v. Costco - April

What counts in valuing a diamond? - May

Appraising Jewelry - What’s a credential worth? - June

A Cutting Question concerning vintage diamonds - July

Synthesized Diamonds - Scam update - August

Pretty in Pink - Kunzite on parade... - September

Preventing jewelry losses - October

Scratch a diamond and you’ll find . . .??? - November

Synthetics in the Mix - December

2012

Advanced Gem Lab - A deeper look at colored gems - January

Whose Diamond? - February

Appraisal Inflation - It Keeps On Keeping On - March

Big Emerald - April

Changing colors and making gems: Are we seeing "beautiful lies"? - May

Diamonds - Out of Africa. . .or out of a lab? - June

Appraiser's Dream Contest - July

GIA & the Magic of Certificates - August

Pricey when it’s hot: What happens when it’s not? - September

Fooling With Gold - October

Tanzanite – December's stone - November

Branding Diamonds - What do those names mean? - December

2011

Unappraisable Jewelry - January

Replicas - Are they the real thing? - February

Composite Rubies- From bad to worse - March

Jewelry Hallmark - A Well-Kept Secret - April

Non-Disclosure: Following a Trail of Deception - May

Preserving the Diamond Dream - June

Spinel in the Spotlight - July

Jewelry 24/7 - Electronic Shopping - August

Diamond Bubble? - September

Disclosure: HPHT - October

"Hearts & Arrows" Diamonds - November

How a Gem Lab Looks at Diamonds - December

2010

Emeralds - And What They Include - January

Pink Diamonds: From Astronomical to Affordable - February

Palladium-the Other Precious White Metal - March

Bridal Jewelry - April

The Corundum Spectrum - May

How Photos Cut Fraud - and help the insured - June

The Price of Fad - July

Old Cut, New Cut-It's All about Diamonds - August

EightStar Diamonds-Beyond Ideal - September

The Hazard of Fakes - October

Jewelry with a Story - November

Counterfeit Watches - December

2009

Blue Diamond-cool, rare and expensive-sometimes - January

Turning Jewelry into Cash—
Strategy in a Bad Economy
- February

Enhancing the Stone - March

Being Certain about the Cert - April

Every Picture Tells a Story - May

Color-Grading Diamonds - June

The Newest Diamond Substitute - July

What Happens to Stolen Jewelry - August

Jewelry As an Investment - September

Black Diamond: Paradox of a Gem - October

Protect Your Homeowners Market—Keep Jewelry OFF HO Policies! - November

What’s So Great about JISO Appraisal Forms & Standards? - December

2008

Garnet - and Its Many Incarnations - January

Organic Gems - February

Do Your Jewelry Insurance Settlements Make You Look Bad? - March

Don't Be Duped by Fake JISO Appraisal - April

Diamonds in the Rough - May

The Cultured Club - June

Sapphire-Gem Superstar - July

It's a Certified Diamond! - But who's saying so? - August

FTC Decides: Culture Is In! - September

Paraiba Tourmaline – What's in a Name? - October

How Fancy is Brown? - November

CZ – The Great Pretender - December

2007

Moissanite's New Spin - January

Online Jewelry - Buying and Insuring - February

Blood Diamonds - March

Damaged Jewelry, Don't Assume! - April

Chocolate Pearls - May

Appraisal Puff-Up vs Useful Appraisal - June

It's Art, but is it Jewelry?- July

Diamonds Wear Coats of Many Colors - August

Danger! eBay Jewelry "Bargains" - September

TV Shopping for Jewelry - October

Enhanced Emerald: clever coverup - November

How do you like your rubies -
leaded or unleaded?
- December

2006

The New Platinum: A Story of Alloys - January

Ruby Ruse - February

How Big are Diamonds Anyway? - March

GIA Diamond Scandal
Has Silver Lining for Insurers
- April

Watch Out for Big-Box Retailers Insurance Appraisals - May

Mixing It Up: Natural and Synthetic Diamonds Together - June

Tanzanite - Warning: Fragile - July

Red Diamonds - August

Inflated Valuations & Questionable Certificates - September

Emeralds - October

Where Do Real Diamonds Come From? - November

Counterfeit Watches - The Mushroom War - December

2005

The Lure of Colored Diamonds - January

Synthetic Colored Diamonds - February

Watches: What to Watch for - March

When is a Pear not a Pair? - April

The Truth About Topaz - May

White Gold: How White is White? - June

One of a Kind - or Not - July

Jewelry in Disguise - August

Valued Contract for Jewelry? Proceed with Caution! - September

Antiques, Replicas and All Their Cousins - October

Grading the Color of Colored Diamonds - November

New GIA Cut Grade for Diamonds - December

2004

Synthetic Diamonds - and Insuring Tips - January

Bogus Appraisals and Fraud - February

A Picture is Worth Thousands of Dollars - March

Don't be Duped by Fracture Filling - April

Gem Scams Point to Need for Change - May

What is a Good Appraisal - June

4Cs of Color Gemstones - July

Gem Laser Drilling: The Next Generation - August

Why Update an Appraisal? - September

When to Recommend an Appraisal Update or a Second Appraisal - October

Secrets of Sapphire - November

Will the Real Ruby Please Stand Up - December

2003

Mysterious Orient:
A Tale of Loss
- January

Bogus Diamond Certificates and Appraisals - February

Can Valuations be Trusted? - March

Spotting a Bogus Appraisal or Certificate - April

Counterfeit Diamond Certificates - May

Case of the Mysterious "Rare" Sapphires - June

Politically Correct Diamonds - July

Name Brand Diamonds- September

Princess Cut: Black Sheep of Diamonds - October

Reincarnate as a Diamond - November

Synthetic Diamonds - December

2002

Irradiated Mail/Irradiated Gems - January

Fake Diamonds (Moissonite) - February

GIA Diamond Report - March

AGS and Other Diamond Certificates - April

Colored Stone Certificates - May

Damaged Jewelry: Don't Pay for Nature's Mistakes - June

The Case of the "Self-Healing" Emerald - July

Mysterious Disappearance: Case of the Missing Opals - August

The Discount Mirage - September

What Can You Learn from Salvage? - October

Gaining from Partial Loss - November

Year in Review - December

2001

Colored Diamonds - January

Good as Gold - February

Disclose Gem Treatments - March

FTC Jewelry Guidelines - April

Myths Part I: Each Piece is Unique - May

Myths Part II: Myths, Lies, & Half-Truths - June

New Trend: Old Cut Stones - October

The Appraisal Process - November

Year in Review - December

2000

Deceptive Pricing - January

Gems - Natural or Manmade - February

Jeweler/Appraisal Credentials - March

Fracture Filling - April

Salvage Jewelery - May

Gem Treatments - June

Don't Ask/Don't Tell - A Buying Nightmare - July

Laser Drilling of Diamonds - August

Jeweler Ethics or the Lack Thereof - September

Gem Scam - October

The Truth about Clarity Grading - November

Year in Review - December

 

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Yogo sapphires – What's in a name?

Yogo sapphire

Sometimes it's: Location, location, location!

Some gems carry the name of the place they were mined, because gems in those locations are likely to have some particularly attractive qualities.

This is true of the mineral corundum, which gives us the gems sapphire and ruby.

Sapphires are corundum of any color other than red. Though usually thought of as a blue stone, sapphire can be yellow, orange, pink, green, or even colorless, depending on trace minerals. Kashmir sapphires are the most famous and fetch high prices because of their superior clarity, hue and saturation.

Yogo is not as familiar a name as Burma or Kashmir, but Yogo sapphires are the U.S.'s own, homegrown high-quality sapphires. These gems come from the Yogo Gulch in Montana.

Untreated sapphires in various colors

Sapphires in Yogo Gulch were discovered in the 19th century when prospectors panning for gold found little blue pebbles in the debris. Even today, visitors to the Sapphire Mountains of Montana can sift through gravel to discover their own sapphires. Attractive sapphire can be found in a number of sapphire's colors, though they do not match the quality and value of the Yogo Gulch gems.

Most commercially available sapphires are heat-treated to enhance their color. Heat treatment can turn a pale, listless color into an attractive, highly saturated hue. About 94% of the sapphires on the market today have been heat-treated.

Yogo sapphires have a well-saturated blue color that requires no heat treatment. Their color is said to hold its brilliance in both natural and artificial light, which is also a rarity for sapphire. One estimate put the value of Yogo sapphires at $10,000 per carat, compared to about $1,000 per carat for other Montana sapphires.

Rubies—that is, red corundum—can be found in a range of reds that includes pinkish, purplish, orangey, and brownish variations. The precise coloring is determined by trace minerals in the geologic location that produced the ruby. Rubies from Burma (Myanmar) are prized for their exceptional color, which has been described (in evocative, though certainly not gemological, language) as "Pigeon's blood" or a deep red with a bluish hue.

 

The mine's location is not the whole story

Even when a location is known for producing superior rubies or sapphires, not all gems from the mine are of high quality and value. What the insurer—and consumer—care about is this particular gem, and that requires an appraisal.

Most jewelers and appraisers deal primarily with diamonds, but a colored gem should have an appraisal from a trained gemologist who is familiar with the market for colored gems.

Names like Burma ruby, Kashmir sapphire, and Yogo sapphire have a prestige that increases the gem's market value. If the source of the stone was said to be one of these premier locations, be sure it also has a lab report verifying the gem's origin, as well as its quality.

Appraisals for colored gems

Burma ruby

For colored gemstones, color is the most important determinant of value. The description must be in proper gemological language, not metaphorical or poetic terms such as "cornflower" blue or "pigeon blood" red. (Gemologists joke about how to apply this traditionally used term: first you have to find a pigeon, then you have it kill it, then you have to compare the gem within the first 24 hours. . . .)

For quality ruby, even slight variations in color can mean significant differences in valuation. An experienced eye and an accurate gemological description of color will distinguish ruby from pink sapphire, which is worth considerably less.
 

When does pink (sapphire) become red (ruby)?

A gemological description, giving tone, saturation, and hue, should look something like this: medium dark (tone), vivid (saturation) purplish red (hue)

A word about locations of diamond mines

Just to be clear: for diamonds, location of the mine does not signal quality.

Colored gems like ruby and sapphire develop in the earth's crust, relatively near the earth's surface. Here the gem material encounters other minerals that influence its color. Yogo sapphire, for example, owes its deep blue to traces of titanium.

Diamonds, on the other hand, were formed hundreds of millions of years ago deep in the earth's mantle and are brought to the surface by some dramatic event, such as a volcanic eruption. They are not affected by the geology of the location where they are mined.

Sometimes diamond producers may append a location to their product for marketing purposes. "Canadian diamonds," for example, tells the consumer that the gems being sold are not  blood diamonds, the term for diamonds mined by forced labor, with profits going to support insurgents. Knowing the Canadian source may be important to some consumers, but the location of a diamond mine reveals nothing about the quality of the diamond.

 

FOR AGENTS & UNDERWRITERS

For colored stones, color is the main determinant of value. The appraisal should describe the gem's color in precise terms of tone, saturation and hue. A vague description, such as "blue sapphire," is useless.

High-value, purportedly rare, gems should always have their quality verified by a gemologist who is experienced in the buying and selling of that gem, is familiar with its pricing, and is aware of treatments and scams associated with that gem.

Sample of a GIA Origin Report

The best appraisal includes the JISO 78/79 appraisal form and is written by a qualified gemologist (GG, FGA+, or equivalent), preferably one who has additional insurance appraisal training. One course offering such additional training is the Certified Insurance Appraiser™ (CIA) course of the Jewelry Insurance Appraisal Institute.

Sample of an AGL Prestige Report giving origin

Gems sold as coming from a premier source, such as Kashmir, Burma, Ceylon and Yogo rubies and sapphires, should be accompanied by a report from a reliable lab. Be sure the report is one that verifies the gem's origin, as labs may offer several reports, at different prices, containing more or less information.

These are the major trustworthy labs:
GIA
AGL
Gübelin
AGS
GCAL Certificate Search

The insured can take the jewelry to her own jeweler, who will send it to a lab that has the equipment and expertise to determine gem origin.

All treatments should be disclosed.

The vast majority of ruby and sapphire are subjected to heat treatment to improve their color. Often these gems are sold without the treatments being disclosed. Treated gems are worth considerably less than untreated gems of similar appearance.  

Unheated sapphires of attractive color are extremely rare and are priced accordingly. If a gem is unheated, that should be specified on the appraisal.

Synthetic rubies and sapphires are quite common. The appraisal should state that the gem is either mined or lab-made (synthetic), since lab-made gems are worth considerably less.

FOR ADJUSTERS

Check the appraisal for words such as synthetic, lab-grown, lab-made, cultured, or manufactured.  The term Lindy or Linde describes a star sapphire that is lab-made.

There is always the danger that gem treatments will not be disclosed — by the supplier, the dealer, the jewelry manufacturer, the retailer, or the consumer — either out of ignorance or as deliberate fraud. The insurer is at the end of this chain and could wind up grossly overpaying a claim.

Fracture-filled rubies are penetrating the marketplace and may be passed off as untreated gems. Check the appraisal for the terms fracture-filledtreated, and clarity-enhanced.

Beryllium-diffused sapphire
sold with disclosure by GemSelect.

Ruby and sapphire are commonly subjected to heat treatment to improve their color. Since beryllium-diffused sapphires are common, look for mention of this treatment (sometimes called "bulk diffusion") on a sapphire appraisal.

Do not assume that if the appraisal doesn't mention treatments, the gem must be untreated; most likely, if treatment (or lack of it) is not mentioned, other information is incomplete as well.

See JISO 18 for its list of gems requiring special information for proper valuations. This form is a great checklist for verifying that all value elements are on the appraisal.

Always have damaged stones examined by a gemologist (who is not the selling jeweler) before settling a claim. For all colored gems, be sure to consult a jeweler who regularly deals with colored gemstones. The jeweler should be a GG or FGA+ and preferably also a Certified Insurance Appraiser™.

Whenever you encounter an unusual name or term on an appraisal, it's worth taking a second looks at the docs. And maybe doing a little research (Google is a good place to start). Brand names and special terms may give you important information about the gem's quality and value.

 

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